For moviegoers who actually take note of a film's scenery -- or
fans of Elvis, Indiana Jones, Mr. Roarke and Tattoo, bikini babes,
dinosaurs or all of the above -- Kauai might look oddly familiar.
Indeed, check the TV monitor hanging behind the driver's head on
the Hawaii Movie Tours bus, a company whose half-day tours offer an
insider's peek of Polywood, then look outside, and you can easily make
the screen-to-scene connection.
Kauai, which sits at the top of the Hawaiian Islands chain, has
been the shooting locale for 75-odd films and TV shows over the past 70
years (the first was "White Heat," the most recent, "Hilary Duff's
Island Birthday Bash"). It has stepped in for Zaire ("Outbreak"), 1930s
South America ("Raiders of the Lost Ark"), the South Pacific ("South
Pacific"), even a deserted island populated by a mismatched band of
castaways ("Gilligan's Island" pilot). And it has played a supporting
role to stars big (the King, King Kong, John Wayne), B-list (Anne Heche,
Herve Villechaize, T-Rex) and embarrassing ("The Bachelor" contestants).
Many Kauai tourist maps highlight these movie locations, so you
can visit them on your own. But without the backstory, they are just
pretty tropical spots with thin significance -- the bay where Lee Marvin
paddled an outrigger in "Donovan's Reef," the swath of sand where Mitzi
Gaynor washed that man right outta her hair in "South Pacific," the
waterfalls in the opening sequence of "Fantasy Island."
Hawaii Movie Tours, though, gives these sights context and
Technicolor with in-van clips, tabloid-quality gossip, bloopers and
tour-guide patter á la "Mystery Science Theater 3000." (Warning:
Spoilers to follow.)
"They ran two miles through sugar cane fields and weren't even out
of breath. And that was a nice little climb out of an aqueduct. They had
a crane and lowered the basket for them. So much for the big race," said
guide Bill Alexander, pointing out the fields and adjacent 80-foot
Wailua Falls that "Amazing Race" competitors allegedly scaled. "If I've
ruined reality shows for you, I'm sorry."
No worries, Bill, at least we know Elvis is still a stud, what
with his game of hide-and-seek girlfriends at the Coco Palms Resort, off
Kuhio Highway in Wailua, during the "Blue Hawaii" shoot. And that
Harrison Ford is human, after an accidental face plant during a
rope-swinging scene in "Raiders of the Lost Ark."
The company, started in 1996 by the former owners of a local
exotic bird store who had bit roles in Hollywood flicks, has grown to
three kinds of excursions and a small fleet of vans (maximum 10 to 14
passengers). The vans are outfitted with small screens, so you can
swivel your head from the monitor to the picture outside your window.
The 4x4 tour I took hopped around a small but dense parcel on the
island's east side, with drive-bys or stopovers at the Lihue Airport,
Nawiliwili Harbor, Lydgate Park (the setting for a "Fantasy Island"
episode -- the wedding reception of Mr. Roarke and a dying woman -- as
well as our picnic lunch place), two sets of waterfalls and more. Those
sites are open to the public, yet two others are for tourgoers' eyes
only: the private Rice Ranch and the
once-grand Coco Palms, closed for 11 years. The movies seen and
discussed ranged from classics like "Donovan's Reef" to bombs like "She
Gods of Shark Reef," and all the popcorn flicks in between ("Jurassic
Park," "Seven Days Six Nights," etc.). And though the tour caters to
movie buffs, it doesn't ignore those who prefer their panoramas
unedited.
"We came for the scenery, not the movies. We wanted to see the
private property, go off-road," said a Californian visiting for the
fourth time with her husband. "When I'm not interested in the movie, I
just look out the window."
Or maybe swing from a rope like Indiana Jones?
The famous "Raiders" scene of I.J. fleeing down a hill being
chased by a band of warriors (really Hawaiians, whose bare behinds had
to be darkened to erase tan lines), then jumping on a rope toward
freedom, was filmed at the Rice Ranch. The rope is still there (or at
least a version of it), dangling from the tree like a long monkey's
tail. Ford didn't have much luck when he swung on it, and a stunt double
had to step in.
However, when my turn came, I pounced on it like a real-life
action hero, riding high in the sky, looking for crocs in the river and
snakes in the trees, and wondering if even after all these years, I
could see an imprint of Indiana Jones's face in the Hawaiian dirt.
-- Andrea Sachs
Hawaii Movie Tours offers three different half-day tours, with
daily departures from its Kapaa office (4-885 Kuhio Hwy.) or pickups at
various resorts. Cost: coastal land ($105.21), 4x4 off-road ($117.71)
and the ultimate tour (4x4/helicopter, $267.71 or land/helicopter,
$248.96). Price includes lunch. Info: 800-628-8432, www.hawaiimovietour.com.